Motivation.
Why is motivation so important? Because a motivated dog will try it's hardest every single time to get the reward. A little like people working hard at work to get more money on the paycheck. Have you ever seen how hard a child tries to get a parent to say yes to something? That's motivation we want in a dog! If you have the right reward the dog will walk on fire for that reward, meaning doing whatever you ask just to get the reward.How can a clicker help me? Isn't that silly?
The clicker is never upset, angry, having a cold, or gets frustrated. It sounds the same all the time. Also, it is easier for the brain to press a button than forming words. Because in dog training timing is everything. If you are a little too late your dog will have licked its lips or taken a few steps and you will reward the wrong behavior or the dog will not understand what you rewarded.Now, are you telling me that a dog really will find some form of reward in a click?
Well, no. Some people believe that the click is the reward itself. But it really is just a signal that a reward is on the way. It just becomes more accurate this way when used right and when the person understands the idea of this.To make the clicker positive you click - reward with a treat, click - reward with a treat, click - reward. A couple of times. You will see when the dog starts to connect the dots cause the dog will start to look at the clicker. If you pause it might start licking or nudging your hand with the clicker in it. If you have reached this point, wait for the dog to look into your eyes, click and reward the SECOND the dog looks into your eyes, and after the reward redo it again a couple of times. If you want a command for eyecontact (like the kiss-kiss sound, the dogs name or a whistle) you can add this when the dog gets the eyecontact game. Command the sound or word (happily or casually) click for eyecontact the second it does and reward. This will make the dog connect the dots sound (words are sounds too) to behavior means reward.
Two types of clickertraining.
There are two ways of doing this clickertraining. Once the dog is "clicked in" and has connected the click to reward you can start training for real.Did you ever as a kid play the game "hide the key" where you were searching for a hidden key high and low while your friends said it was "warmer" if you got closer and "colder" if you went further away from the hiding place? That game is a lot like clicker training!
When you want to reinforce a behavior you click each time it gets warmer and reward. You may have to do the same babystep several times however for the dog to understand which behavior you are rewarding. Nomatter which method you use you reward every step in the right direction towards the goal. It can be shifting weight, to lifting a paw, to taking a step, and so on.
First method you simply wait for the dog to think for itself and try offering behaviors until you click. This will be slow in the beginning until the dog knows the game but it is the the most challanging way of clickertraining. This may fit high energy dogs best since it tires them out well. Example: Border collie, australian cattledog and other herding dogs.
Second method is to lure the dog with a treat. Upside is that you help the dog in the right direction, downside is that you can create a dog with a hand obsession, so fading the lure is important as soon as the dog starts to get the game. (To the dog learning is always a new game you came up with.) This method fits independent breeds better since they easier gets bored. Example: Terriers.
Remember that all dogs are individuals however and you might have a terrier that loves working independently, or have a herding dog who requires guidance. Some insecure dogs prefer the guided method, eventhough the selfthinking method increases their selfesteem with time.
If the dog fails or gets frustrated, you advanced too fast and need to back up in the training.
Rewards.
What reward to use for my dog is a common question. And a good one too!You can cut up and dry chickenfillets into chicken jerky in the oven on low degrees until they are fully dried. Remember to keep the pieces small enough that the dog don't have to stop to chew for long. They only need the flavor. For small breeds you can split the chicken even after drying for even smaller pieces and avoid burning.
You can use dry catfood. They have tiny pieces and a higher amount meat so the dogs love them! Catfood last a half forever as treats and you can reward more times without worrying too much about calories. Catfood even has several types of flavors eventhough most got chicken. Try to vary! This treat works for both large and small breeds. If your dog is obese you can choose a diet food for less fat.
Both these options will save you money on the candy. But there's another option! Toys! If you have a dog that just loves balls, the frisbee, a squeekytoy or tug-o-war you can use this as a reward. A small warning though, this can be stressing for some individuals. Key is to vary your reward with those between treats and toys.By varying the reward the dog will have that christmasfeeling, what reward will I get now? Will it be the thing I love most in the whole wide world?
Do I have to carry around a clicker for the rest of my life now?
No, the clicker is only for learning, once the behavior is taught you don't need the clicker for that behavior anymore. As for rewarding, it's good to reward with praise and occasional treat or toy just to keep the motivation up even after learning.Help! My dog is scared of the clicker! I'm screwed!
Don't worry. It doesn't have to be a clicker. You can go "Yes!" or something instead. It is not as percise but it works just as good. I have a dog who is scared of the clicker and we managed fine. :) Just make sure the rewardword or sound does not come up too much in everyday speech, this can lower the value of the word. Yes is good because it's short, it's clear and most people go "yeah" in everyday speech nowadays.This turned out long so I will finish for today. Thanks for reading!
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